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The ultimate Mercedes EIS repair guide

1
Here is my short, but hopefully usefull manual I wrote for most Mercedes Motorola EIS diagnostic and repair.My experience is not decades, but I made keys and repairs to 100s of them.
I am sure many people will add knowledge to this thread.
A few simple rules have helped me to be successfull most of the time:
-Always threat EIS with respect. Regardless of how many times you did this job, it will byte you later if you cut corners
-Always connect the EIS for testing to a bench power supply with display for the current. Closely monitoring the current EIS is drawing helps evaluate the condition. 1mA difference points to a problem. Also the beahviour thru different stages can be observed-when inserting the key, when it goes to sleep, etc
-After reading the dump from EIS always run it thru SKC to verify the corectness. If it looks weird, read again to verify.
-First thing is always to read and back-up the EEprom data. Always, first thing.........
-Before even starting any work on the EIS connect to a power supply and test the function. Even if there is no original working key another key can be inserted to verify the correct function. This way you will know if a subsequent failure has occured after your intervention or before.
-Make sure the key you programmed is fully functional. I use AK500 to verify each key I renew is a functional and the IR circuit works.
-It is good to have a similar EIS handy to make comparisons on the board, the current it draws and eventually to swap the EEprom.

So let's start with the first type EIS introduced in 1998 for the W202, W208 and W210 models. 210 545 00008, 210 545 0108 and 210 545 0208. No mileage or VIN stored inside.
It has 2 HC(7)05 MCUs inside. 0D69J, 1D69J and I have seen one other mask once or twice(and was not able to read it). There are different speculations for what is stored in which MCU, but these type EIS is extremely hard to clone or change data inside. Personally I have never luck to clone one. I believe most of the data is stored in both MCUs. I dont know anything that reads them in circuit, I use ETL and AK500. ETL reads them around 80-90%, some can never be read. AK500 is doing 99% of them. If it doesnt read after first few attempts heat the MCU a bit, if it doesnt read again heat it up a bit more and so on. Do not overheat it, you will kill it if it is not already dead. Keys can be made from the 2nd MCU that is inside. It is a PITA to be removed, but sometimes that saves the day.
Steering lock has 2 Motorola MCUs inside and is resetd simply, after that it becomes universal and works with every EIS. I use AVDI, but FVDI does the job too. Very rare failures.
Failure modes:
-Shorts the interior CAN and nothing works. Engine starts and runs. When the key is removed from the ignition the steering lock doesnt move to lock position. I have success replacing the outside MCU with another one and switch the EEprom. I am putting used MCUs, but has to be outside MCU from another EIS as the flash data is different.
-Old big Motorola key stops working. Sometimes the steering will unlock when the key is inserted, but it cannot be turned. That is the most common failure I get. It is end of life of the key (200 000 insertions) or has hash error in the key. Honestly I have never had a good success with reprogramming Motorola keys so i just throw them in the drawer and make another NEC key.
-Last one I got was weird: at 13v or more it works fine, at less than 13v the key cannot be turned. I will post results when/if I find a solution.
Connection:
On the black 14 pin connector
pin 3-ground
pin 7-+12v
pin 4-ESL MCU1
pin 5-ESL MCU2
pin14-K-line

[Image: DSC_0033_zpsgllg4krl.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0034_zpsqp84bjef.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0039_zpschpcy8kt.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0040_zpsa2hsb7en.jpg]

On the pictures below you can see the behaviour of a healthy 210 EIS.
30mA on idle. If the current is 20mA or 40mA, or even bigger difference, there is a very big chance that the EIS has some problems.
These EIS go to sleep mode very quickly and current drops to 0. It can be waked-up with inserting any key.
[Image: DSC_0035_zpsldcku1qu.jpg]

When a key is inserted and the coil is switched on the current goes to ~130mA. There is a microswitch that is pressed by the barrel when the key is inserted. If the current doesnt change after key insertion it is either the switch or MCU1 problem.
If the key is not recognized(not from this car) the current will drop to 30mA. If the key is recognized, but there is a hash error or other problem the current will stay at this level for a long time.
[Image: DSC_0036_zpswrhikjwd.jpg]

If the key is recognized the ESL must unlock and the solenoid that enables the key turning is activated. Current briefly raises to almost 1A. Key can be turned now.
[Image: DSC_0037_zpsqrgnfpnj.jpg]

Current goes down and the key can be turned now. The coil for the key and solenoid are activated. If the key is turned the current will drop further as they are de-activated.
[Image: DSC_0038_zpsdwpeyghl.jpg]


Early W220 EIS is similar to the W210 EIS with 2 HC(7)05 inside. Usually found in 1999-2001 models. Strange, but the key data can be in either one of the MCUs. So you just have to pick one and remove it. I usually choose the one with the shorter solder pads. 220 545 0008, 220 545 0208, 220 545 0408, 215 545 0008, etc. W220 models does not have a steering lock, the shifter has DAS function. Key hashes are stored in the EEprom and drive authorisation will be issued only if a key is recognised by the EIS, shifter and ME.
Early W220(and 215) with this type of EIS dont have CGW and no mileage or VIN is stored in the EIS.
Connection:
On the black 10 pin connector
pin 5-ground
pin 1-+12v
pin 2-K-line
pin 7,8-CAN

[Image: DSC_0041_zpswp4kuhwp.jpg]

Similar current as the 210 EIS.
Idle
[Image: DSC_0042_zpsenh7iibu.jpg]

Uknown key inserted.
[Image: DSC_0043_zpsvsflxqaa.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0047_zpsriugzpow.jpg]


In the next chapter expect some insites for the most problematic EIS with HC(9)08 .
Thanks given by: rokibar , KriyenKPp , Pielek , gabi2013 , Marcos , hagop , @utodiag , tatyanka , t1tan1 , jahacmm , conorleahy , Viliux2 , testariauto , perso69man , Mario3 , power10010 , mete38 , jihene , autodevelopments , Jan1980 , HeXeN , pesona , The Gig , nenad.gorgi , daxxer , automotive-electronics , diagnostix , Chevy1j , narkeleptk , craig coopen , 2999keys , dunnnia , Keller , kreepyme , delimemet , Silverdisc , Gringo , LudaBrown , lo6iatdi , McTallman , Shifty , bachev_89 , macp , Proxide , streetrod , h0ly5h1t , Tower , spacebiker , Pabellon 7 , IheartCars , shasse , GTB01 , aminyo , charger , KEEN , AALocks , MarvelMurmer , Havanaboy , atomeromu , mpwright , nathansauto01 , rodoet , prochipper , darkshiningg , Hansdampf , Kenny , dantesque , riste-tomoski , liakontas , rocknrollgood4soul , gerardoargentina , mickye_dj , andrewbishop66 , Deplore , Jaycee230 , Hikahuza , Unielectronic , Pluto , tpresser , krazykar83 , net_proo , maliomladinac , artkiani , czaron , robunicu , omega_ , autoseek , ph0en1x , dziongas , jmcerrajeros , PedroX5 , charles.soori , techterr , geerux , LazaroDig , dingchavaz , freakit , DiagMan , Biguelou , benzcoupe , careforever , rclasic , Digidiagnosis , efka , ntom , autokeypro , kelrich7 , kiki0311 , zuzuss , hugos31 , dmp_canada , r.arbnor , gameiruz , minc3r , mbbmwworkshop , Strikers , apple , l0x2 , hir818 , mentos , nourou22 , faizal5259 , ataya , rocris , mercas , blue0sky , jimthejock , daniloos , JarsaR , SOS_MLADOST , haiz0708 , ricco123 , belkhadem , sylver989 , Cab Fix , bestelectrical , kisslorand , Chaminda hettiarachchi , abdolibi , capa_man , rusinov87 , obeids , killian2008 , babanovski , matekhr , gunio , CERAMIC , c0600677 , bursuc_2005 , koziolek , libyana134 , cobblers , gerberauto , julespatch , Shakeel5477 , jnoroeste , dsz009 , mpbrand89 , newtronic , jyc32727 , bjdelgado , PierreTheron , sab_bane , Otti , volly , mbsupport , Msmax , myrijose1 , marcoa , justin , Faiq , e500 , LUNA-trans , temo4ka , dinho , Oda112 , amlop , Salt and sideways
2
hello I respect the effort you put o help others , good work.
Thanks given by: bawarek , gabi2013 , thomas69 , traktor
3
with all respect thankyou brother41
[Image: 8f2352371173282.jpg][Image: postbit_thx.gif]
Thanks given by: bawarek
4
Indeed,RESPECT. THANK YOU.
Never seen anything like that,Usually it is hidden knowledge.
Alex
P.S. Only thing you miss is CIRCUIT DIAGRAMS of those EIS(internal connections between MCU's and rest of components and good quality detailed pictures of PCB). Plus list common problem's and solutions.
P.P.S. Plus use EMULATOR in ESL place($20 nowadays)-it comes with 0.5 seconds delay,but NO MORE worries with ESL(and PROBLEMS associated with locked steering wheel )
Thanks given by: bawarek , KriyenKPp , HeXeN
5
respects and thenks sir. Handshakeas other members have said this is not something that everybody knows about. how about wiring diagram from eis to where-ever. eg 12v, ground and where do all the other wires run to from eis because there are quite a few on these two plugs. if there are wiring problems causing non start, what are common problems besides eis itself.Anim_19Give5Fing24Thankyou
Thanks given by:
6
Respect for your work ! Great !!

Some important informations additional:

1. Case: Remote door lock works, you insert key but cannot turn -> Check ESL, if ESL does not unlock, you can never turn the key.

2. Case: Remote door lock doesn´t work, you insert the key, esl unlocks, but you cannot turn -> EIS or key damaged.

3. Always try to use the second key before you remove anything. If second key works, you know, just first key is damaged.

Always first step is to read diagnostic trouble codes with DAS. If you work on a petrol car, always
take a look to the ecu coding string and write it to a piece of paper. On diesel cars no problem.


Before remove EIS, always remove the ESL. Otherwise, if you get problems with EIS while repairing, you will get a problem to remove the ESL if it is locked. For sure, better remove.

The keys are stored in the external mcu. If you only want to make a key, it´s enough to read the external mcu. The internal MCU is for the interieur can bus. In the internal MCU are stored key hashcodes, too. But they are not the same like in the external MCU. I made a lot of experiments, the keys are always just from external MCU.

Easiest way (for me) to repair a car with damaged EIS:

- Read trouble codes with DAS.
- In DAS you can see the EIS partnumber.. Buy exactly the same EIS without keys on junkyard.
- Read the ECU coding string, if it is a petrol car and write to piece of paper.
- Remove ECU, ESL and EIS.
- Desolder external MCU and make keys (dumps to the original keys).
- Virginize ESL with Ak500
- Virginize ECU.
- Move EIS, ESL and ECU back to the car.
- After insert the key, ESL will sync automatically.
- If it is a Diesel car and you virginized the ECU with autosync file, it will also sync by itself, you can start directly.
- If it is a petrol car. You have to teach in the ECU by DAS with the VIN and the Coding string. Do NOT interlock the ecu. It will interlock by itself after 40 starts.
- Now, you have to change some parameters in EIS to adjust the parameters to your car.
- Last step. Erase the trouble codes.


Why i want to use a donor EIS ?!

1. It´s terrible to solder the internal mcu (for me).
2. It´s the fastest and the easiest way (with good tools).
3. You will never find new 0d69j MCU in high quality. Motorola/Freescale stopped the production. Chinese MCU costs 10-15$/piece and are without good quality. Both MCU= 30$ + shipping + zoll + you must wait long time to get them.
4. Donor, working EIS from junkyard cost between 30 and 60 Euros in my country.

If you have trouble with hash error, you can send the dumps to me, i can repair..



Please press thx and rep, if it helps..
7
Respect bro! Very clear info!
if i have help you press only this reputation and thisFing32 thanks
Thanks given by: bawarek
8
Jan1980, thank you for adding these important steps. My write-up is for more advanced users, so it was good someone else to cover the basics.
You mentioned something that I wanted to add soon about the replacement EIS. Here in the US market W208 and 210 after 2000 come with ME2.8(M112 and 113). If you change the EIS and try to do initial start-up with virginised ME, the personalization will be aborted with unknown error. Even if you put the VIN from the donor car(where you got the EIS) same thing will happen. So I use sets of EIS and ME from a donor car.
On the newer models same thing happens, but I use different strategy. I read the replacement EIS and change the SSID and VIN (if applicable) with the one that belongs to the car i will be installing it in. SSID can be read from the original EIS or key. This way the EIS will be already synced with the dahs and airbag. Dont forget to reset km in donor EIS because if it has more miles than the car you have to do it all over again. AFTER I have changed the SSID I calculate the keys. If you calculate keys for the donor car and then change SSID in EIS the keys will not work. If the car you are working on is 2005 or newer with 7G tronic transmission have to be careful. The key hashes are stored in the VGS and it is part of the DAS. Either original key hashes has to be transferred in the replacement EIS or the VGS has to be virginised and re-adapted with the new hashes.
But in any case except old 210 EIS i prefer to work with the original data from the car. In very rare cases the data is lost or missing, or cannot be used. Recently I had to work on a 2005 C230. If you insert and turn the key quickly the car will start normally, but after 1 second the interior CAN will be down. No windows, no dash, nothing. If you insert the key and wit a few seconds the releasing solenoid will power down and the key cannot be turned before it is removed and re-inserted. Ok, bad flash, me thinks. I remove it, reflash it and re-install(this EIS with 9S12, marked 209_ZGW inside). It works normal.....for 3 times. After that, same thing. So i get to my stash and take another one also marked 209_ZGW inside(more on the types later) and transfer the original EEprom. All good works fine. For 10 times. After fiddling with it on the car, it works good again. Customer takes the car and calls 2 days later-same problem. Good thing this car has the older 722.6 and not 722.9 transmission so one less headache to deal with. So i take the original dump, take a dump from different type of EIS (also with 9S12 inside) and transfer the original hashes, SSID and password to the replacement dump and write in the replacement EIS. I install it in the car, it is accepted as the original, car starts........and the interior CAN is down again. I am finally pissed-off. I take the replacement dump and change the SSID and VIN only. Reset the ESL and prepare virginized ME(SIM4LKE). Calculate new keys. The EIS is accepted by the dash and airbag module. Adaptation of the ME goes smooth and without problems. The car starts and all is fine now for 2 days. No warning light or funny behavior. Of course i forgot to reset the miles in the replacement EIS and the dash jumps to 300 000 kilometers. That will be dealt later.
9
I am trying to learn Mercedes keys ,,,, I have read the dump from switch ,,,
But I have made the mistake of ordering a motorolla chip key could not read ,,, and just last week I ordered two keys and it was the smart ones I should say. So I can read them with nec golden prog
I'm trying to figure it out ,,, thanks for the post !!!!!
Thanks given by: bawarek

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